|
|
Trainer's Corner
Unleashed Reading…Helpful articles for healthy, happy pets
Articles herein are shared with permission via Chris Haworth / Manners Unleashed
The Barker
Article Written By: Chris
Haworth / Manners Unleashed
Bark
Bark Bark
Characteristics
of a Barker
Studies
have been done to try to determine which dogs are more likely to be
barkers. Although there was no difference in the percentage of
excessive barkers between males and females, there was a breed
difference. Hounds, Terriers, and some herding breeds tend to bark
more. That is not surprising, since this is one of the characteristics
for which they were bred. Excessive barking can occur in purebred dogs
as well as mixed breeds.
Reasons
for Barking
Many
excessively barking dogs do so out of boredom, loneliness, and
frustration. Other dogs bark out of fear or defense of their
property. Being located near a busy sidewalk or other stimulus will
cause many dogs to bark a lot. And, as discusses previously, some
breeds have been bred to be vocal, so it can be difficult to eliminate
an inherited trait.
Barking
is a perfectly natural canine behavior and is one of the most difficult
to modify, as it is a self-reinforcing activity for many dogs.
How
to Reduce or Eliminate Barking
Walk
and train daily! A physically and mentally exercised dog simply does
not bark as much.
“But
my dogs have a big back yard to run in all day.”
This
does not take the place of putting a leash on your dog and going for a
walk. Typically, any activity your dog does in the yard is unfocused,
often destructive and a nuisance (barking) which they are rehearsing
daily and being self-rewarded for. They tend to become
hyper-vigilant to every sight and sound when unsupervised, which can
lead to excessive barking in other scenarios.
Walking
at your side challenges and fulfills many of the natural canine
instincts. It is mentally challenging as they learn to defer to you and
exhibit attention, focus and self-control. They’re exposed to new
sights, smells and stimuli, which is great for continued socialization
and confidence building (two of the biggest reasons for excessive
barking).
The
walk is structured, and gives a sense of calm to your dog if done
consistently. If you only manage 1-2 walks a week of course your pal
will be overly stimulated, hyper-motivated and act as if he’s a maniac,
on walks and at home. If you’re avoiding walks with your dog because of
his leash manners or reactivity to other people or animals, then those
are the behaviors that need addressed.
Mental
activity such as daily short training sessions for foundation manners
uses 25% of the body’s energy. Think how tired you are after a busy day
at work. Even if you’ve been sitting all day, brain work is draining.
Remember, a tired dog is a quiet dog.
Give
them back a job other than barking at every sound and leaf that blows
across the yard. Put the food bowl away, and let
them work for their calories. (See Get Rid of the Food Bowl
for a Better Behaved dog).
Other
helpful techniques:
Train
a “quiet” command. Say “quiet” or “enough” wait for 1 second of silence
and reward. Lengthen the duration of silence slowly and always praise
your dog’s efforts.
It’s
easier to modify the environment than the dog. If he’s yapping at
passerby’s or delivery people, then it becomes a cycle of bark/reward.
Here comes the mailman…”Woof, woof, woof!”, And there he goes. HA!
Showed him. The dog is reinforced time and time again as people walk by
the house. This can set the stage for hyper-vigilance as we discussed
earlier. Close the curtains or confine him to another part of the
house. Problem solved.
“He
starts barking as soon as I get on the phone!”
*
“Woof woof”, you look at them, maybe say something to them. The very
nature of barking gets your attention, even if it’s just a look, you’ve
reinforced that behavior. The dog has learned to bark in variety of
situations, many of them inappropriate, to get something it desires.
Remember to acknowledge and praise them when they’re quiet and ignore
them when they are barking for attention. If they’ve been successful
with the bark/reward game for any length of time than it will take
longer. Actually it will get worse before it gets better. They will go
through something called an extinction burst. Because barking has been
successful in the past, but suddenly doesn’t work anymore…they will
bark louder and longer to achieve their goal. Knowing this should give
you the wherewithal to endure and ignore! If a behavior isn’t
reinforced it will extinguish.
*
Yelling may reinforce your dogs barking as well. It tends to add to the
excitement or anxiety of the already intense situation, and make it
worse. If you need to interrupt the noise try dropping a can of pennies
on the floor or smacking a counter top, then immediately redirect him
to another activity.
*
Train an incompatible behavior. My Cavalier King Charles Spaniel barks
when people drive into the driveway. I’m teaching him to go to the
porch, sit and wait until I’ve given a release cue. It gives him
something to think about and tends to diffuse the vocalizations. Inside
he is to go to a certain spot in the entry and sit. It’s a process, so
be patient and consistent.
*
I always recommend training first but the citronella spray collar has
worked effectively in conjunction with a training program for many
clients. There are also many high frequency collars and devices that
may work for your dog as well.
These
are just a few techniques to get you started. I understand that every
dog and situation is different, and that there are few behaviors as
frustrating as excessive, incessant barking.
For
more helpful articles by Chris be sure to check out: http://www.mannersunleashed.com/blog/
BACK
TO TOP
Fear, Reactive and Aggression
Issues
Article Written By: Chris
Haworth / Manners Unleashed
Resource/food
guarding, on-leash reactivity to other dogs, nervous around kids, and
on and on and on..
This
is a huge subject and unfortunately, all too common. Often times
however, the behavior seems far worse than it is, and is a fairly
straight forward remedy. Other times, well, it’s not so straight
forward.
I
know you’re embarrassed, frustrated, and wish he would just STOP it.
This
is a behavioral issue near and dear to me. My 2 year old aussie/ border
collie, Emmy, had many reactive issues. I was certainly in denial early
on, “how could my own dog be aggressive?” It forced me to do many, many
hours of reading, research and seminars on the subject.
Since
those early days I now know that much of her behavior is genetic. Other
manifestations of her breeding are a low tactile/high opposition
reflex. This basically means she doesn’t necessarily like to be
touched, especially by strangers, has restraint issues and is extremely
space sensitive.
This
is true not only of many herding breeds but more dogs than you would
think. Labrador and Golden Retreivers tend to propagate the Myth that
every dog should be friendly, happy and outgoing to everyone in every
situation, all the time. Wow, that’s alot to ask. We don’t expect that
from a cat, or horse or any other animal. Heck, are we friendly, happy
and outgoing, to everyone, all of the time…not me.
I’m
not saying that it’s okay for your dog to act aggressively or “over the
top” whenever he feels the need. To the contrary, let’s teach him
alternative ways to deal with his fears, anxiety, hyper motivation,
etc. as well as showing you ways to be a better advocate and leader for
your buddy.
There’s
enough information about aggression and related issues to give a
seminar here, but for now suffice to say, there are ways to help most
cases.
Emmy
and I now live a reactive free life. She can be off leash anywhere
without me worrying about an inappropriate response, loves other dogs
and doesn’t mind the occassional pet from a stranger. I also use her
during some of the training sessions with aggressive, “over the top”
dogs to act as the neutral, well mannerd, calm dog. She’s got great
body language which helps to put the other dog at ease.
We’ve
come along way for sure. Maybe we can help you. If I feel like a
professional other than myself would be more appropriate for your case
I also have some fantastic referrals. Drop me an email or give me a
call. Let’s talk about some options.
For more helpful articles by Chris be sure to check out: http://www.mannersunleashed.com/blog/
BACK
TO TOP
Flea
Season
Article Written
By: Chris Haworth / Manners Unleashed
Flea season is
upon us, and the best control for these adaptable, blood sucking
annoyances is prevention.
There are many flea remedies on the market that may be safer than even
just a few years ago; however, anything that says “avoid contact with
skin” is something I may think twice about putting on my dog.
These are some alternative suggestions:
Flea Facts
Fleas are highly adaptable and can reproduce at an alarming rate. The
lifespan of a flea is about 90 days and a single flea can lay as many
as 60 eggs per day.
Eggs take from 2 days to 2 weeks to hatch depending on temperature and
humidity.
Most fleas are living in your dog’s environment, rather than in its
fur. Every flea found on your dog may mean approximately 30 more in
your house.
Most flea eggs are laid when humidity is high and temperatures are
between 65°-85° F, and they prefer dark, moist environments.
Fleas can be carriers of tapeworm.
Controlling the tiny beast:
First off, inspect your dog. Typically fleas will congregate around the
base of the tail and belly. If you find small black particles in your
dog’s coat, it is probably flea feces. If you’re unsure place a few on
a damp paper towel. If they turn red, you have fleas to hunt down.
Diet- Good nutrition will reduce your dog’s susceptibility to fleas by
increasing his immune system and encouraging a healthy skin and coat.
Dry unhealthy skin causes itching and reactions to fleabites are more
severe. The fleas didn’t cause the skin ailments; they only worsened a
previously existing problem. By feeding a high-quality, natural diet,
free of additives and preservatives, you improve your dogs health and
increase protection from fleas.
Fatty acids that are rich in omega-3, like fish oil and flax seed oil,
also promote a healthy coat and may help to combat inflammatory
reactions caused by flea bites.
(Check my Resources & Tools page for
Natural Health food stores).
Grooming- Bathe your dog weekly with a natural, mild shampoo (no
chemical laden flea control shampoos please). Start at the neck and
liberally lather the entire body. Leave on for at least five minute as
the suds drown the fleas.
For most dogs five minutes in a tub is an eternity, so I always arm
myself with small, tasty treats or better yet, a thin thin layer of
peanut butter covering a plate? As I hold the plate for my dog to lick,
the minutes tick away. Sneaky! And you’ve added a positive association
to bath time.
Finish with a lemon rinse and allow to air dry. (Lemon rinse recipe:
slice a whole lemon and drop into a pitcher of very hot water, allow to
steep overnight…easy, huh?). The residual citrus odor is a flea
repellant, and also helps tone unhealthy skin.
There are many great natural sprays containing other safe repellants
such as: pennyroyal, neem & tea tree oil, eucalyptus, cedar
wood, or lavender that I use daily as well. (Found at the natural
health stores on Resources & Tools page.)
Flea combs are also effective. They remove fleas and help monitor the
extent of your bug problem. Have a dish of soapy water near to drown
any found fleas.
The Yard- Keep the flea population down in your yard by using
beneficial Nematodes. These are microscopic worms that eat flea larvae
and many other lawn infesting pests. They can be applied using a
watering can or a sprayer attached to your hose. Place them in moist,
shady spots around your house as nematodes nor fleas survive in hot
sun. Many garden stores carry them (Watsons & the Windmill), as
well as online sources.
The House- Vacuum often & thoroughly! I sprinkle a teaspoon or
so of Diatomaceous earth (a desiccant which dehydrates fleas) on the
floor and vacuum it up so any flea larvae are killed in the bag. Vacuum
carpets, under furniture, beds and throw rugs, sofa cushions, corners
and floorboards. This is where the majority of your problem lives. By
breaking the flea’s lifecycle every few days they won’t be able to
proliferate.
Once you’ve cleaned well apply Diatomaceous earth. It cuts through the
flea’s exterior causing it to dehydrate and die. It’s safe to use
around pets and children. Follow the package directions. I get mine
from The Mud Bay Granary.
Wash any bedding the dog sleeps on 1-2 times per week in a hot soapy
washing machine and dry in a hot dryer. I recommend choosing bedding
that’s easy to wash often during flea season.
Daily I quickly sprits my dogs with a natural repellant that’s good for
their skin and coat, and once a week I do flea prevention around the
house, wash all the bedding, vacuum then re-apply the diatomaceous
earth in the house and my vehicle. It really doesn’t take long and
prevention is much easier than trying to eradicate a full on flea
infestation!
Help from your veterinarian
Dogs can have an allergy to the saliva of a flea bite, so it may only
take one bite to send your dog into an “itching, scratching” nightmare.
For these dogs natural methods may not be sufficient to relieve the
problem and you may need to speak to your vet about alternative
treatment.
Good Luck and enjoy a healthy dog & flea free season.
For more helpful
articles by Chris be sure to check out: http://www.mannersunleashed.com/blog/
BACK
TO TOP
Get Rid of the Food bowl
Article
Written By: Chris Haworth / Manners Unleashed
…for
a happier, better behaved dog
Think
about where dogs evolved from thousands of years ago. They used to have
to hunt and scavenge for food most of the hours of the day using the
innate senses bestowed upon them. Once they caught or found something,
their energies would be directed at dissecting and consuming it.
Now
we put the same, pre-measured food in the same bowl, in the same spot
at the same time each day. Or worse, leave it down all day like a
buffet. Boring!
Hardly surprising then, they have found
other ways to fill the hours. Excessive barking, destroying furniture
and shoes, digging up your flower beds, anxiety behaviors, and so on.
We’ve essentially taken away their job, in an attempt to make their
life better.
When I have a consultation with a new client,
regardless of the behavior I’m there to solve, one of the first
questions I ask is how, when and where the dog receives their food.
Most
dog breeds were bred to perform a job for humans, most dogs have some
level of prey drive, and ALL dogs like to eat. I’m not buying the
excuse “my dog isn’t food motivated.” As long as there are no medical
conditions inhibiting appetite, eating is a survival instinct and dogs
want grub.
Have
you ever seen your dog play with their food, hide it, dump it or toss
it around? They’re trying to make it more interesting. Give them back
their job and make finding calories more challenging.
Kongs
Kongs
are a must in every dogs home. They’re a solid rubber, hollow toy
perfect for filling with food. Start very simply by filling it with
your dogs kibble and a few higher value chunks of food like chicken or
low fat turkey dogs. As your dog investigates and moves the Kong
around, food falls out. They soon learn how to expediently remove the
contents.
Once they start to understand that this is their
new food bowl you can start making it more challenging. Fill
with
kibble about two-thirds full and top off with something squishy like
Kong Paste or peanut butter. Now your pal learns to lick out the soft
stuff to get to the kibble. At this point you can go two directions.
Either freeze the concoction to make the top layer harder to get
through or add less kibble and more soft food.
When I add
more soft food to the Kong I start to use healthier choices such as a
great quality canned food, cottage cheese or scrambled eggs. If you go
with more soft stuff don’t start freezing yet. Allow them to be
successful extracting it at room temperature first. For the
dogs
that never really get to that inch or so of soft food at the very
bottom, I simply fill the bottom third with kibble.
Both my
dogs are “kong-a-holics” and always prefer a challenging Kong to a
boring, easy bowl of food. My favorite Kong stuffing recipes for Emmy
and Cody are slightly scrambled eggs, mixed with kibble. The omelet
like goo goes in the Kong, and the Kong goes in the freezer for several
hours. I also keep several cans of high quality dog food on
hand
and layer tuna & cottage cheese with it in the Kong. Again it
goes
in the freezer. Freezing makes it less messy and takes longer for the
dog to work at it. If I need to be gone several hours I make
3
Kongs each dog. If I would like them to be quiet for an hour while I
work with clients I’ll give them 1 each.
Feeding
Kong’s in the crate is great way to give a positive association with
being alone. For new puppies that need to be put in a laundry room for
several hours, this is another safe and positive association. For
appropriate size and strength go to Kongcompany.com or ask the experts
at the Health food stores I’ve recommended in training resources
&
tools.
Chicken Feed Method
Dogs are expert
“sniffers” That’s the natural way they used to find food. Instead of
putting their breakfast in a food bowl, take their morning portion of
kibble and toss it all over the back yard or in every room of the
house. It keeps them mentally focused & stimulated making sure
they’ve tracked down each calorie. And when they’re busy hunting
kibble, they’re not busy digging, barking and destroying furniture.
Come & Find It
This
is a great training exercise, as well as an interactive way to feed
your dog. You can even be sitting in your favorite chair watching the
news while you do it.
Measure out your dog’s meal and place
it in a cup or bowl next to you. Toss a few pieces of kibble to the
other side of the room and say “find it!” or “get it!” Let them hunt it
up themselves. If you keep showing them where it is or repeating your
cue they’ll learn to rely on it. Soon they will become self reliant and
their instincts will improve. When they find it say “Cody, Come” in a
cheerful voice (say it only once). When they come back to you feed a
few pieces w/ lots of verbal praise as well. Then toss a few and say
“find it!”, again. This is an excellent way to practice the recall and
interactively feed your pal. Great rainy night game as well.
Tip:
if they insist on jumping on you or trying to get to the food simply
pick up the food, stand up and leave without ANY emotion. They’ll soon
learn to respect your space and understand that as their fair
consistent leader, you’ll be in charge of doling out the good stuff.
Buster Cube, Talk-to-me ball, & other interactive feeding toys
Are fun & suitable for filling with kibble.
Pack leader (Dominance = Priority access to resources)
Portion
out your dogs daily allowance of food for the day and put it in baggie.
Keep several pieces in a pocket and throughout the day ask your dog to
do simple commands. Sometimes you’ll deliver food, sometimes a game of
fetch and sometimes verbal praise. He’ll never know what the reward
will be only that he enjoys being asked. Every once in a while I’ll
just toss a small handful out of the blue, and say “find it!”
I
keep training and playing equally exciting and rewarding for my dogs.
Sit gets a game of tug, come gets “find it!”, and stay gets a belly rub.
Mix it up; let your dog enjoy working for his daily meals, as well as
playtime and attention.
Get rid of the food bowl…for your happier, well behaved dog.
For more helpful
articles by Chris be sure to check out: http://www.mannersunleashed.com/blog/
BACK
TO TOP
Tips
for Separation Anxiety
Article
Written By: Chris Haworth / Manners Unleashed
I most often see this in small breeds and rescues, but it can certainly
afflict any dog. It’s heart breaking, pathetic and extremely
frustrating for all. There are many layers of treatment to address this
behavior, and owner dedication and patience is a must, but often the
problem can be remedied.
Here
are a few tips:
1)
More exercise. There’s a reason I put this first on the list. Pent up
energy comes out one way or another, usually in a negative form. Get up
early and walk your dog for 20-30 minutes. Exercise raises seratonin
levels (the neurochemical in the brain that promotes a sense of calm)
and can help reduce anxiety.
2)
No excessive attention prior to departure or upon return. Keep “hellos
and goodbyes” low -key.
Most
behaviorists recommend ignoring the dog completely for 10-20 minutes
when you leave and come home. I know this is difficult, but
essential to get your stressed out buddy over this thing. The
key here is that you don’t acknowledge them until they are calm…If
that’s 3-4 minutes, than that’s when you can say ‘hello’—calmly!
3)
Change your departure routine. Grab your coat and keys and then just go
sit down. Walk out the door, then come back 10 seconds later, like
nothing happened. Modify the sequence of events so your dog doesn’t get
a chance to even start the anxiety symptoms let alone get into a
full-blown panic attack. This starts to change the mental habituation
that accompanies the physical manifestations. Practice on the weekends
as well when you have more time to dedicate to desensitizing
your dog to your leaving.
4)
Be careful not to reward insecurity or timidity. Act as though
everything is fine. Does this sound familiar? “Mama loves you
–Be a good boy– it’s
OK!” Yep, we’ve all
been there, but QUIT IT. It can actually become a cue or a switch to
intensify the anxiety.
5)
Weaken her dependency on family members when you are home. This doesn’t
mean you can’t interact with her, just don’t be so excessive and
accessible with attention and affection. The key here is to get your
pal calm and confident on their own, whether you’re home or not. This
again is difficult on family members. Think of it as ‘tough” love.
6)
Natural remedies such as Rescue Remedy or a Dog Appeasing
Pheromone Collar can calm anxious behavior and gently take the edge off.
7)
For severe cases, Anti anxiety medications are often used, (talk to
your vet about appropriate options) and in conjunction with the other
behavior modification techniques, your dog could be more mentally and
physically healthy and happy.
For more helpful
articles by Chris be sure to check out: http://www.mannersunleashed.com/blog/
BACK
TO TOP
|
|
